Definitely been here before very recently, new head set arrived, head put on loosely so I could bolt on the new inlet set up consisting of the Dan ST engineering inlet manifold, coupled via the silicon hoses ( blue obviously) to the original set of bike carbs I had for a pinto years ago.
Was also able to refit the exhaust, block up the fuel return pipe, taped out of use the wires / plugs for the injectors and TPS.
Made up a bracket to hold the fuel pressure reducer that uses two of the inlet bolts, rerouted the fuel pipes to suit, refitted the alternator and then replaced the HP fuel pump with a new in the box low pressure one I had as a spare.
Tried it all out to see the fuel pissing out the low pressure pump so back on eBay.
Locost ''Eleanor'' Rebuild
Moderator: Contaminated
- locost220
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Re: Locost ''Eleanor'' Rebuild
Locost book chassis, Undergoing testing post rebuild
Robin Hood 2B, keeping me sane
Sylva Leader, stuck to the trailer
Robin Hood 2B, keeping me sane
Sylva Leader, stuck to the trailer
- Weathers
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Re: Locost ''Eleanor'' Rebuild
Richard. Just had a 5+ page catch up. Sorry to hear about all your problems.
The one thing that struck me other than a new set of TBs not sounding likely to fix the issue was could anything have happened in the time that the engine was not in use? Anything partially ceased or got dirty for example?
The one thing that struck me other than a new set of TBs not sounding likely to fix the issue was could anything have happened in the time that the engine was not in use? Anything partially ceased or got dirty for example?
- ChrisL
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Re: Locost ''Eleanor'' Rebuild
You'll need to check your cylinder pressures once you've got the head on...(guessing you know this already!!)
Yes I've been drinking, what of it!!
- locost220
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Re: Locost ''Eleanor'' Rebuild
Fair point guys, I stored it in no worse conditions then any other engine. Be interesting to see what they are once it is tight again.
Locost book chassis, Undergoing testing post rebuild
Robin Hood 2B, keeping me sane
Sylva Leader, stuck to the trailer
Robin Hood 2B, keeping me sane
Sylva Leader, stuck to the trailer
- locost220
- Posts: 4490
- Joined: Sat Mar 13, 2010 7:31 pm
- Location: Lewisham South London
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Re: Locost ''Eleanor'' Rebuild
Long story short is the engine is now running reasonably, if that all you want to know then job done
For those who are interested in the detail it been more than a bit of a journey since the last update, that time gap being an intended one on my part as wanting to get to today success before boring you all silly.
So after the new fuel pump arrived I once again asked Matt for help finalising the head refitting and timing the belt up.
With those bits done Matt suggested we try a compression test before trying to restart the engine to see if the middle two cylinders now had some decent pressure, turns out the readings were exactly the same prior to the head gasket being done approx 70, 60, 20 and 70.
Bit of head scratching before Matt said let have a look at the valve clearances, all the exhaust were bang on point but there was no noticeably gap on three of the inlet valves covering no 2 and 3 cylinders so hence why no decent compression on those ones.
Cams back off again and taking out the fixed buckets ( as opposed to shim type buckets on Zetec ) and seemed for what ever reason these were now too big to give the correct ( or any clearances) all we have done that could affect this was a very light grind as part of the overhaul prior to going to the RR session.
Looked at getting some replacement buckets the correct size as they appear to be sold covering various ranges but took the 3 I wanted altered to a machine shop who said they would be too hard to machine a few thou off and instead suggested grinding the same off the end of the valves,
So head came off once again and valves and spring removed and used a V block to hold the valve flat on my belt sander and some of the remaining 5000 grit sanding disc from the paint prep was used to remove little by little with the valves getting pushed back in the head with the cam in till I got the correct clearances, head fully reassembled and cam fitted off the car for a full dry run.
Head back on and once all ancillaries were done and a few watt app messages with Matt I put on the big pants and timmed it up myself and put the belt on and sort of got it running like a bag of poop.
Few twiddles and run a bit better during the week.
Matt came over armed with half his garage today as requested and once again has played a blinder by tackling in no particular order, no good supply of fuel in the tank (sigh)
Bit of fiddling with the air bleed screws, trying different plugs, coil pack, simple ignition loom, colour tune.
Bit by bit it came together and now seems to tick over and start good although I need to get the choke working to make it easier to cold start.
Last compression test shows 100 or their abouts that still seems low to what I recall but enough to get some miles on it hopefully.
Will try to have a play tomorrow up and down the alley way if allowed.
For those who are interested in the detail it been more than a bit of a journey since the last update, that time gap being an intended one on my part as wanting to get to today success before boring you all silly.
So after the new fuel pump arrived I once again asked Matt for help finalising the head refitting and timing the belt up.
With those bits done Matt suggested we try a compression test before trying to restart the engine to see if the middle two cylinders now had some decent pressure, turns out the readings were exactly the same prior to the head gasket being done approx 70, 60, 20 and 70.
Bit of head scratching before Matt said let have a look at the valve clearances, all the exhaust were bang on point but there was no noticeably gap on three of the inlet valves covering no 2 and 3 cylinders so hence why no decent compression on those ones.
Cams back off again and taking out the fixed buckets ( as opposed to shim type buckets on Zetec ) and seemed for what ever reason these were now too big to give the correct ( or any clearances) all we have done that could affect this was a very light grind as part of the overhaul prior to going to the RR session.
Looked at getting some replacement buckets the correct size as they appear to be sold covering various ranges but took the 3 I wanted altered to a machine shop who said they would be too hard to machine a few thou off and instead suggested grinding the same off the end of the valves,
So head came off once again and valves and spring removed and used a V block to hold the valve flat on my belt sander and some of the remaining 5000 grit sanding disc from the paint prep was used to remove little by little with the valves getting pushed back in the head with the cam in till I got the correct clearances, head fully reassembled and cam fitted off the car for a full dry run.
Head back on and once all ancillaries were done and a few watt app messages with Matt I put on the big pants and timmed it up myself and put the belt on and sort of got it running like a bag of poop.
Few twiddles and run a bit better during the week.
Matt came over armed with half his garage today as requested and once again has played a blinder by tackling in no particular order, no good supply of fuel in the tank (sigh)
Bit of fiddling with the air bleed screws, trying different plugs, coil pack, simple ignition loom, colour tune.
Bit by bit it came together and now seems to tick over and start good although I need to get the choke working to make it easier to cold start.
Last compression test shows 100 or their abouts that still seems low to what I recall but enough to get some miles on it hopefully.
Will try to have a play tomorrow up and down the alley way if allowed.
Locost book chassis, Undergoing testing post rebuild
Robin Hood 2B, keeping me sane
Sylva Leader, stuck to the trailer
Robin Hood 2B, keeping me sane
Sylva Leader, stuck to the trailer
- DJ.
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Re: Locost ''Eleanor'' Rebuild
Really good to see you've made progress , and we'll done Matt again.
Removing metal from the valve is a good idea, as they should get minimal wear on the ends in use.
Fingers crossed the compression improves as the valves and piston rings bed in.
Removing metal from the valve is a good idea, as they should get minimal wear on the ends in use.
Fingers crossed the compression improves as the valves and piston rings bed in.
- Jasonmpk
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Re: Locost ''Eleanor'' Rebuild
Yep, well done to you and Matt to get it very nearly sorted.
Jason
Jason
- ChrisL
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- Fury1630
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- Location: Camberley
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Re: Locost ''Eleanor'' Rebuild
Blimey Rich that's a lot of work. Sounds like it's heading the right way now though well done to both of you!
Rickman Ranger
Fisher Fury
Quantum 2+
SSC Stylus
http://blatterbeast.blogspot.com/
http://www.pistonheads.com/regulars/ph-carpool/fisher-fury-ph-carpool/31848
Fisher Fury
Quantum 2+
SSC Stylus
http://blatterbeast.blogspot.com/
http://www.pistonheads.com/regulars/ph-carpool/fisher-fury-ph-carpool/31848
- locost220
- Posts: 4490
- Joined: Sat Mar 13, 2010 7:31 pm
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Re: Locost ''Eleanor'' Rebuild
Locost Eleanor passed her first mot today since 2018, with flying colours.
Great service from Snodhurst as usual, managed to bump me up the Q as I was early.
Trailered it there as no tax or road insurance but had a little scoot around to finally check steering and brakes.
Now onto the next list of things to do.
Great service from Snodhurst as usual, managed to bump me up the Q as I was early.
Trailered it there as no tax or road insurance but had a little scoot around to finally check steering and brakes.
Now onto the next list of things to do.
Locost book chassis, Undergoing testing post rebuild
Robin Hood 2B, keeping me sane
Sylva Leader, stuck to the trailer
Robin Hood 2B, keeping me sane
Sylva Leader, stuck to the trailer
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