Man with spanners - thinks he's a mechanic

[SteveRST]

Hey Chris. I used to have a CVH engined car with EDIS and Ford ecu. That was a long time ago though.
My megasquirt car doesn't run EDIS. The coils are driven directly by the ecu.

Sorry if u know all this!
The EDIS module has a limp home mode that will fire the coils regardless of any signal from the ecu. So I'd forget about the ecu for now and try to get a spark at the plugs without it.

If coils have good 12v and wiring to EDIS is correct then I'd be looking at the vr sensor.
Is the VR sensor mega close to the trigger wheel / flywheel? Less than 1mm. Is the VR sensor wiring shielded - that is important? Polarity correct? It only works one way.

Yep I remember connecting the two spark outputs from the EDIS to drive the rev counter in my old car, along with some resistors or something. That's pretty common and Google will know. I'd get rid of that for now though.

Good luck, sure you'll get it firing soon!

[ChrisL]

Agree with you re the tacho, I can use the ECU as it is probably running the rev counter, just heads out for a lap of the engine before travelling the 30cm to the meter!!

The VR sensor does get a 2v AC signal, my 'scope isn't good enough to be able to scroll back and find the missing tooth in the trace, I've also added shielded wiring, but if it was working before why would it stop now?

I'm kinda thinking that the PIP signal must mean that EDIS thinks the engine is running, especially after having to swap the polarity on the VR sensor to get them to appear.

Oh well 3 day weekend coming up which will give me more opportunities to swear a lot and shout at the dog!!

[ChrisL]

Yeah we have spark, and a loose wire somewhere! But no fuel - yet!

[ChrisL]

After much dicking about with which lead tells the ecu the engine speed she's trying to start, but dies almost immediately. I'm guessing this is due to after start enrichment not being right. will keep plugging away but there's life

[Fury1630]

Well done. Keep at it

[ChrisL]

So after much head scratching i realised that I'd wired the MAP sensor wrongly and blown the 2 BAR MAP sensor. After sorting the wiring and fitting a 3 BAR sensor (and calibrating) it starts and idles, but is a bit lumpy. I've wired the injectors as 1&2, 3&4 which I know now should bw 1&4, 2&3 but not sure if it is worth fixing. Going to check the timing next:

https://youtu.be/IFYsORxPEQc

[kenton]

Well done Chris, a real achievement and all your own work. Time left for a shakedown before the "big one"

[Fury1630]

^^ what he said ^^

Brilliant achievement, sounds quite smooth for a cold engine, I take it you may allow your self a small beer this evening??

[ChrisL]

Alas not out of the woods yet, getting a lot of fan belt squeal and not happy with the recycle tube position so I'm going to replace the SC needle bearings and hope the rotor pack ones are OK, buy a fan belt that will allow me to run without the SC (just in case) see if I can get a 6 rib fan belt and reposition the recycle tube. Busy weekend then! Oh and if I get time swap the firing of injectors 3 and 4.

And yes many beers drunk. It's always good to feel like you are making positive steps, until I worked out the MAP issue I was really banging my head - I hate not knowing what to do even if knowing what to do is hard/expensive.

[Fury1630]

But it LIVES! - Everything else is just fettling

This is how Engineering works, it's an "iterative process", first you make it work, then you make it better. I'm still making small changes to the throttle linkage I designed & built over a year ago.

Can you put an idler somewhere so the belt goes round more of the S/C pulley if that's the issue?

Is it worth making sure the battery is fully charged before you start it so you know it's not the alternator pulley squealing?