Man with spanners - thinks he's a mechanic

[ChrisL]

Re the engine mount, it basically needs to be thicker, when I moved it back I didn't take into account that it would need to form a U shape so the stressed area is a lot smaller.

I've taken Friday off for a trip to Burtons, as it's not clear what clutch I've currently got, as the friction material only measures 210mm, 1.8 ST Zetecs should be 220mm and Pintos should be 215mm!!!

[Fury1630]

Re the engine mount, it basically needs to be thicker

I used 3mm & it was fine - if it's designed right - OK, mine cracked, but only after several thousand miles & a crash & it cracked along a weld because I can't weld for toffee

[ChrisL]

I'm making up a plate from 5mm steel and slightly redesigning to go around the ford mount point rather than just across the top, if you see what I mean - it's exhaust side BTW

[David T]

Hi Chris, my engine mounts are 6mm plate and 5mm box section. Not the lightest, but very strong.

Re the rod bolts. Make sure you get the bearing caps countersunk. Part of the ARP bolts strength comes from the inside shoulder that is curved as opposed to the weaker right angle in the OEM bolts. Hope that makes sense. I've the measurements in a diagram from Raceline if you are interested.

[ChrisL]

Yes please, will PM you my email address

[David T]

Done.

[ChrisL]

A not as expensive as it could have been means I now have a Helix clutch and heavy duty clutch cover that should be good for road use, gotta say the guys at Burtons really know there stuff and sold me what I needed not what was flash/expensive.

ARP bolts and new clutch installed and the engines back in and will get decommissioned tomorrow.

Really felt like there car was fighting me, especially when putting the sump back on one of the bolts decided to sheer, bear in mind this was just at the nipping up stage, but still meant I have to take the sump back off to retrieve the #@%*!ing bolt.

[ChrisL]

Engine's back in, all connected up and just running through the tests before trying to start.
Injector test works but the spark doesn't although I'm not sure it will with EDIS as all the MS can do is advance/retard the timing.

Anyone know if I should be getting a spark?

[ChrisL]

Hmm have hit a roadblock.
I cannot get the EDIS to cause a spark.
I've: disconnected the ECU; checked the EDIS and coil get 12V which on cranking drops to just over 10V; I've checked the VR sensor wiring and am getting over 2v on cranking using an oscilloscope, I've tried swapping the VR sensor polarity. Now I'm stumped. One thing I have noticed is that there's a connection between the two EDIS coil outputs, which appears to be a tach out and in theory shouldn't be connected and I've not been able to trace it, but I can't imagine why a tach out would be stopping anything?

[ChrisL]

I’m seeing a PIP signal:

https://www.dropbox.com/s/5wyvdm9alhkx8tv/PIP.MOV?dl=0

But the output to the coil isn’t quite what I was expecting, this is between the middle and the right output on the coil plug:

https://www.dropbox.com/s/owjg9vzg5ujys ... l.MOV?dl=0