SKCC - Southern Kit Car Club. A Club for kit car owners across Southern England. Kent, Sussex, East Hants, Surrey, Berks, Middlesex, London

Ordered another set of stretch bolts and head gasket so I can swap the head over. Should be here in time for another weekend of it. Degreased a few parts ready to fit along with a clean of the car and engine bay.

Why do you need a new head? as that bolt will come out with a bit of work,

steve

steve m wrote:Why do you need a new head? as that bolt will come out with a bit of work,

steve

I’ve some spare heads Steve, rather than butcher the current one with the risk of swarf in the engine, it’s just as easy to swap then over. Chances are I’d need to helicoil it and the helicoil kit is more expensive than the new gasket and bolts needed if I remove the head and swap it.

Let me know if my thinking isn’t sensible.

Makes sense to me, but if the bolt removal went well it might be quicker I suppose. One of these days your luck has to change!

Had this happened on my car I would of done the following first,

Gaffa tape everything that could ingest any swarf
Get a half nut that will fit nicely and flush with the head, and over the stud
Mig weld the nut on to the stud (nut wont stick to the head as its alui)
Put socket on the nut, and crack the thread, as the heat welding would of helped
Take the "bit" out

The thread will be undamaged, but may need a tap run down it to clean up the thread

Remove all the gaffa tape!

Thanks Steve did consider that approach. Rover heads are prone to warping and localised high heat probably wouldn't help. Besides I haven’t got enough gaffa tape to wrap the whole engine.

DJ. wrote:Makes sense to me, but if the bolt removal went well it might be quicker I suppose. One of these days your luck has to change!

I should have checked the head more thoroughly Duncan. Though it’s not one of the bolts you’d expect to break. I guess it goes with the territory when you buy old crap for no money. At least it only costs me time and a bit of effort.

Heads swapped.. cam, timing gear oil pump trigger wheel etc and sump fitted. Clutch and valve gear left, then throw it in the hole. Engines upside down to let the silicon go off. Trying to give it the best chance to stay leak free.

Engine right way up and in the hole..

Spent the afternoon connecting a few bits, a bit of wiring to tidy up, plenum top and coil pack to fit. A small issue with the oil pressure, hitting 100psi when priming, will have another look in the morning, probably a sticking relief valve, got a new one to fit. Will connect a temporary mechanical oil pressure gauge as well to get an accurate take on what’s going on.

Nearly there.