So when I bought my MK2 Honda CRV back in October I noticed straight away on the test drive the clutch was high but not slipping but decided that I would see how the car went for a while then on it mot in January and if all was good and I wanted to use it for some towing when we are finally released I would get the clutch done and kept my Nissan Almera taxed and insured so I could tackle odd and sods. With the mot sorted and a few cosmetics things done as well it was time to take the plunge.
With a read of the Haynes manual and more than one look at some you tube video from professional using full garage lifts and transmissions jacks stating it really hard to do on your driveway and not recommended, bala bla bla how hard can it be.
Turns out a frigging nightmare.
With the garage space taken up with the kit car and the spray booth and knowing that it would probably take more than a day and not wanting to leave the kit cat outside overnight I decided to do this on the area in front on my garage, delaying it last weekend due to the expectant snow I bit the bullet and started yesterday (Saturday ) morning knowing I would probably have to make a support from above to hold the engine as to get the gearbox out you have to remove the sub frame and drop the gearbox out to the floor.
Having done a ball joint gaiter on the pass side a few weeks ago that was itself a mare requiring loads of tricks, tools and eventually taking parts off into the garage I was aware I was probably info a bit of a treat but had a new ball joint and drop link ready for the drivers side already.
Things started reasonable well with engine bay stuff, taking off the undertray and as expected drivers side ball joint won’t budge after some hammering and swearing I had to resort to the grinder, propshaft took some time and in the early afternoon I was at the stage where it was time to figure out the jig so that what ever I made would work and also not impare anything.
I had already seen flashes of one on the you tube videos and also seen ones that span the wing rain channels but the Honda only has wing supports from the inner wing chassis rails below and the pass side was congested so I could not get a purchase and also wanted to go over the top of a useable bolt hole on the engine that I wanted to use to support the pass side of the engine as the front, back and pass side engine supports have to come off to all the engine to come out.
Luckily I had got some scrap box section recently that want to make a frame for a work bench out of so a bit of thought to go under the wing supports on one side and onto the bolts that hold the battery tray already removed and I therefore spent the rest of afternoon making this ready for Sunday including a pair of chains fixed to a threaded bar through the jig to support the pass side of engine
See if you can spot the jig
So an evening of aches and pains followed by a restless night and a morning headache set up for round 2
Support jig in place and time to start removing the engine mounts and the front cross member beam, now I treated myself to a air ratchet in machine mart on Friday seeing how usefull the you tube experts had found them but held off getting a air impact wrench knowing I had one that came my way a few years ago.
Thought I would use the air impact wrench to undo the 4 main support bolts holding the beam up , turns out the impact wrench must had got damaged when I well off the back of the lorry as will only shift a bolt that already falling out,so I had to get out the big boy breaker bar, fook me they were tight all the way and nearly killed myself for half hours getting those gits out fear full they were so tight I was mindful of ripping out the fixed hidden nuts inside the chassis.
With another cross piece across the big jack I managed to get the beam out and dragged into the garage.
Then onto the bell housing bolts and the driveshafts, another challenge requiring some more plastic clips, connections to be taken apart, daughter kept me going with tea and lunch, a few snapped bolts and bad words, bits of wood and two jacks and some more bits off I finally managed to get the gear box out with no clue how I will manage to get it back in but cannot see it being roadworthy like for a couple of weeks as I go through tackling what I can in the evenings ready for round 3 next weekend.
The clutch was on it last legs work down to the rivets on one side and the material starting to break up, quick check to make sure the new one is the right one. Then time to tidy all up and wait for me curry and sort out what else I need.
Honda CRV clutch, how hard can it be.
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- locost220
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Honda CRV clutch, how hard can it be.
Last edited by locost220 on Sun Feb 14, 2021 8:07 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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- DJ.
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Re: Honda CRV clutch, how hard car it be.
Well done Richard, I remember changing the clutch on our Berlingo and it was a challenge even with a four post lift.
Make sure you have some help putting it back!
Make sure you have some help putting it back!
- nelmo
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Re: Honda CRV clutch, how hard can it be.
Ooof, that looks like Hell - makes you appreciate when the dealer tells you a new clutch is £600, or whatever
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- SteveRST
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Re: Honda CRV clutch, how hard can it be.
Sounds like an absolute pig of a job Rich, so well done for tackling it. I hope you're able to get the gearbox in again OK without too much of a fight! Let me know if you get stuck with it and need an extra pair of hands.
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- locost220
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Re: Honda CRV clutch, how hard can it be.
So I thought I would try and put a dent in some of the work required in the evenings ready for a proper round 3 next weekend.
So this evening I started on the ball joint I had to cut through at the bottom of the drivers side stub axle, after taking the lower wishbone off the beam in the garage I initially took a large hammer to the threaded end whilst I had the bone on a vice, no joy there then but made me feel a bit better.
Decided to have a go with some heat and the socket and vice trick.
When that did not work I though I would try to drill out the middle and drive the remainder out.
When that failed as well I had to break out the die grinder
Gercha cow son
With a light tap with the small chisel it finally fell out.
I had to remove most of it before it gave way
I still have to tackle the main body in the stub axle but need to get it off the car first ( tomorrow )
Time to remove more than a few splinters now
So this evening I started on the ball joint I had to cut through at the bottom of the drivers side stub axle, after taking the lower wishbone off the beam in the garage I initially took a large hammer to the threaded end whilst I had the bone on a vice, no joy there then but made me feel a bit better.
Decided to have a go with some heat and the socket and vice trick.
When that did not work I though I would try to drill out the middle and drive the remainder out.
When that failed as well I had to break out the die grinder
Gercha cow son
With a light tap with the small chisel it finally fell out.
I had to remove most of it before it gave way
I still have to tackle the main body in the stub axle but need to get it off the car first ( tomorrow )
Time to remove more than a few splinters now
Locost book chassis, Undergoing testing post rebuild
Robin Hood 2B, keeping me sane
Sylva Leader, stuck to the trailer
Robin Hood 2B, keeping me sane
Sylva Leader, stuck to the trailer
- DJ.
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Re: Honda CRV clutch, how hard can it be.
It is horrible having to do that, but at least it was in the vise and you weren't under the car!
- locost220
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Re: Honda CRV clutch, how hard can it be.
Despite the drizzle in the air I managed to drag myself out of my snooze chair at 6 pm to go out and remove the drivers side stub axle and driveshaft from the Honda outside the garage.
Tonight's target was to replace the bottom ball joints and drill out the snapped 8mm bolt in the driveshaft bracket that holds the cover over the same.
I started off by cutting the top and bottom of the ball joint with one of the thin cutting disc in an angry grinder flush with the stub axle metal, tried some heat again round the area for a laugh but not for too long as concerned about the axle centre bearing. But it did allow me to drive out the remains of the ball.
As expected it would not budge the casing after using a suitable socket as a drift, I also tried to push it out using the same idea as last night with the same result so I had to resort to a hacksaw through the centre of it and cut the casing of the joint in a couple of places
Then drive it out,
clean it up and managed with quite some effort to get the new one in place
and the circlip in the groove underneath.
Then onto the broken bolt, after smoothing out the top
I was able to get a centre punch and drill it through.
I had hoped to be able to retap the thread but went off centre so going to have a clearance hole and nut and bolt instead.
Happy with the evening work.
Tonight's target was to replace the bottom ball joints and drill out the snapped 8mm bolt in the driveshaft bracket that holds the cover over the same.
I started off by cutting the top and bottom of the ball joint with one of the thin cutting disc in an angry grinder flush with the stub axle metal, tried some heat again round the area for a laugh but not for too long as concerned about the axle centre bearing. But it did allow me to drive out the remains of the ball.
As expected it would not budge the casing after using a suitable socket as a drift, I also tried to push it out using the same idea as last night with the same result so I had to resort to a hacksaw through the centre of it and cut the casing of the joint in a couple of places
Then drive it out,
clean it up and managed with quite some effort to get the new one in place
and the circlip in the groove underneath.
Then onto the broken bolt, after smoothing out the top
I was able to get a centre punch and drill it through.
I had hoped to be able to retap the thread but went off centre so going to have a clearance hole and nut and bolt instead.
Happy with the evening work.
Locost book chassis, Undergoing testing post rebuild
Robin Hood 2B, keeping me sane
Sylva Leader, stuck to the trailer
Robin Hood 2B, keeping me sane
Sylva Leader, stuck to the trailer
- b33fy
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Re: Honda CRV clutch, how hard can it be.
[quote][/quote]Well done Rich, you’ve lots of patience and perseverance. Last time I had a go at a stub axle was trying to press the driveshaft out, the driveshaft won
Power.. small nail, fast hammer, Torque.. small nail, big hammer.. I got a big hammer
- locost220
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Re: Honda CRV clutch, how hard can it be.
Only a Short session required this evening, bolted the lower wishbone back on the beam that’s still in the garage, cut the remaining part of the anti roll bar drop link off the beam, refitted the stub axle, disc, calliper and pads.
Then spent some time cleaning the work space including waving the magnetic wand around to pick up any stray metal shards.
Picked up a air impact wrench ready for the weekend.
Then spent some time cleaning the work space including waving the magnetic wand around to pick up any stray metal shards.
Picked up a air impact wrench ready for the weekend.
Locost book chassis, Undergoing testing post rebuild
Robin Hood 2B, keeping me sane
Sylva Leader, stuck to the trailer
Robin Hood 2B, keeping me sane
Sylva Leader, stuck to the trailer
- Tony B
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Re: Honda CRV clutch, how hard can it be.
locost220 wrote:Then spent some time cleaning the work space including waving the magnetic wand around to pick up any stray metal shards.
Picked up a air impact wrench ready for the weekend.
Blimey, how strong was the magnet?
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