SKCC - Southern Kit Car Club. A Club for kit car owners across Southern England. Kent, Sussex, East Hants, Surrey, Berks, Middlesex, London

Anyone got an idea how to adjust that clutch cable with removing the engine and box? Hopefully the photos show that the threaded barrel is held by 2 half nuts either side of the lug. The rearmost half nut is completely inaccessible with a spanner.

I did think about lowering the engine off the mounts but that’s still a PITA as it requires removing manifolds and other stuff no doubt.

Any other ideas before I start dismantling the entire car?

Cheers

Ring spanner with slot cut in it

If you think there is enough room. You could buy a cheap spanner, then I could cut the head off and weld it back together with two 90 degree bends in it, so there is a step to go around the lug.

Duncan

If you can see it you can get it

Clutch cable nuts are normaly a very slack fit if you can get to the outside one then undo this one first then im sure the other will turn with fingers or long nose pliers . once you have made the move you need ie tighter or slack then lock up using the outside nut

Dick wrote:Clutch cable nuts are normaly a very slack fit if you can get to the outside one then undo this one first then im sure the other will turn with fingers or long nose pliers . once you have made the move you need ie tighter or slack then lock up using the outside nut

This!

Tony C suggested something similar to me so when I tried it, yeah, I felt a bit stupid for not coming to that conclusion straight away.

Clutch adjusted, cheers chaps

Next quandary is the working out if I can do anything about the pedal action; the pressure required isn’t linear. It’s like there’s a hump to get over half way through depressing it. Wondering if a switch to hydraulic might help a bit?

Have you checked that the cable isn’t frayed or catching anywhere that would give you that feel

Matth93 wrote:Have you checked that the cable isn’t frayed or catching anywhere that would give you that feel

What Matt said, the cable doesn't last long with it bent back on itself, the inner soon cuts through the lining on the outer cable

russtik wrote:A76F3C6F-ADC1-4DD5-9F76-79DF9EE5A1D9.jpeg28FF771F-C423-4B72-AD92-68BF40FB9FDC.jpeg

Something wrong there - is that a Ford cable on a Type 9?

If so the nut shouldn't fit over the nipple, the cable arrives with both nuts on the threaded adjuster which gets poked through the flange & the nipple gets put in the fork (apologies to anyone in a "carry on" frame of mind). To fit it like that you'd need to take the lower nut off, thread the nipple through the flange & the nut then connect it, & the nipple's to big to fit through the nut.

Matth93 wrote:Have you checked that the cable isn’t frayed or catching anywhere that would give you that feel

I don't think there's anything wrong with the cable. The clutch pedal feel changed when I switched to an uprated Helix cover and plate. I was expecting it to require more force, but not the "hump" feeling. Another thought I had was whether the Ford Cortina release bearing is a good match for the Helix clutch cover prongs.