UPDATEThis has somehow managed to drag on for 2 months, but the engine is finally back in the car and appears to be working with 6 forward gears and no oil leaks!
Shortish video update... I say 'shortish' because I got bored doing the video blog and gave up part way through
Busa gearbox fault finding - part 2 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IfW6O39Jf20(watch Part 1 here if you haven't done so yet:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FC33cOP1oc8)
Now for some details (and costs) -
I replaced the two gears that were failing to engage properly, as the 'gear dogs' looked worn. I also replaced the worn gear selector fork which moves one of these gears. While I was at it, I also replaced the standard oil pump drive gear with a 'hi-pressure' aftermarket item that simply drives the oil pump faster.
Picture below of these 4 items... and the cost - £500. These gears are not cheap!
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Old Vs New...
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Ready to fit...
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I also bought a new stator (generator) which I picked up from M&P shop on eBay with a 20% code for a pretty reasonable £78. Let's hope it lasts!
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Other costs...
- bottom end Cometic gasket set £65.
- Threebond 1215 case sealant paste £12 + a few sundries.
So total cost around £675.
The lower/upper crankcases are not sealed with a gasket, just a thinnish layer of the case sealant paste. So getting the mating surfaces super clean is important.
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Engine hoisted up on to the car, so that I can then attach the engine mounting cradle in place before lowering the whole lot in to the chassis. I must admit it came in/out reasonably easily... I didn't need a second pair of hands. No pesky clutch alignment dramas like you get with a regular car engine/gearbox.
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So next job was to sort the differential oil leak. Fuel hoses removed to create some space...
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Drive shafts unbolted... I was missing 1 bolt from one of the shafts!
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Unbolting propshaft from diff...
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Pain in the bum getting the diff out on your own, and even more of a drama getting it back in! Needed to use the engine crane to help me lower it back in to the chassis, .
This is the 7.5" diff which does seem heavier and leaves less 'wiggle room' for fitting obviously than the 7" diff in my other Westfield.
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When I took the flange off the end of the diff nose, it was clear that my oil leak was not due to oil leaking past the oil seal, but oil travelling down the splines in the shaft and then leaking out at the nut at the end of that shaft.
I used some silicone gasket sealant on the splines and on the far end of the flange so that it should create a nice seal when reassembled and all seems ok.
So, working car again finally.