MNR Vortex RT Hayabusa
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- Phil N
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Re: MNR Vortex RT Hayabusa
Looks good Lee, congratulations on finally getting her home! Look forward to hearing how it goes
9 is more than a number
- Weathers
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Re: MNR Vortex RT Hayabusa
Nice looking motor Lee. Glad you've finally got her home and tucked up in the garage. Let's hope for a spell of dry weather for a few weeks.
But someone's left their paste table on the rear of the roll cage....
If it goes like it looks it will fly. Just be safe! Good times ahead.
Chris
But someone's left their paste table on the rear of the roll cage....
If it goes like it looks it will fly. Just be safe! Good times ahead.
Chris
- leegav
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Re: MNR Vortex RT Hayabusa
well thought id give a little update on the car and how my firsat 60 miles have been. Well i first went out two weekends ago when it was dry. Had to come back after 10 miles though as id jumped in the car too quick and forgot to set everything up properly.
First thing i noticed was that my belts dont fit properly. seem to ride up to my sternum no mattrer what i do and i think thats because they are not fed through side holes in the seat they just come straight over the top. Next novice mistake was the roll bar mounted mirrors. couldnt see abloody thing out the rear view as it was too far over to the left and the roll bar is actually very close to your head when seated. Now for the technical part.
The AIM wheel i have can show you about 39 different types of info from around the car and all this is taken from the MBE ecu and into the Evo5 Datalogger then can be configured onto the 9 pages you change through on the wheel. There was only 5 things set up and that was oil pressure, oli temp, water temp, rpm and speed. So i had no idea how much fuel was in the tank. When i tried to fill up i couldnt get any fuel in and it just pissed out of the filler neck. it is situated on the side of the car in between the rear arch and back tub. i assumed maybe they had brimmed the tank for me before i collected it. Anyway when i called MNR they said, really sorry we forgot to tell you we brimmed the tank and when you fill you have to fill with the nozzle 180 degress rotated compared to normal. .
I downloaded race studio 3 program and from there you can adjust all the page parameters on the wheel. unfortunately i again forgot to configure the fuel gauge. Their is a maths channel where you can add values for different readings too, which is very technical but one example is it can be used to calculate what gear you are in based on RPM, Gear ratios and Speed. so i added those in and VWALA after a quick test the gear indicator on the wheel was spot on. One section of race studio 3 i am currently working on is the alarm section. Basically you can set engine and other car alarms to come onto the screen when a certain value is met. IE coolant temp reaches 110, the screen will flash red and show only coolant temp, this can also be set to 39 different parameters. i definitely need to work on that over the coming weeks. Soemthing else which is a great feature is the built in GPS tracker which can tell you which track you are on and log your lap /split times. pretty much every known track in the world is built in. and all this info can be added to the wheel so you can see live timings and last laps, fastest lap etc. very cool.
Next was bed the engine and brakes in and scrub the tyres, so i went through a predefined process for a radical sr3 sports car as we are using the same engine. Brakes wise i just wanted to warm them up and go through a couple of heat cycles, scrubbing the discs before cooling down nice and steady...i did this all on a 30 mile stretch of the m50 turned around and did another 30 mile back. I have to say the brakes are terrible and despite multiple attempts to get heat in them the pads just wont grab the discs. I think there is some air in the system as they are terribly spongy. i have heard the standard wilwood pads they supply are near on crap. Having looked at the reservoir set up im not happy either. looks like too many areas that could fail with multiple joints so i am going to replace the standard plain cylinders to AP cylinders with mounted reservoirs and replace the discs to mintex 1440's. so the plan is bleed the system and replace those standard items.
Finding neutral is also difficult as the car indicator works off speed and rpm values. so if your stopped and in 3rd gear with foot on the clutch it thinks your in neutral and says neutral even if your changing up and down the box. The way im going to solve this is to by a geartronice gear indicator that plugs directly into the gearbox, just needs a live and earth. this will then be calibrated by hand when in the right gear and it will know exactly what gear when in any position or scenario.
AS FOR THE RIDE... WOW! the car is an absolute rocket. I didnt go past half throttle and its quicker than the tiger by a mile. Its actually a very different driving experience and will take along time to get the hang of for sure. the flatshifter up and down sounds amazing when at 9000 -10000 rpm and changing up. ive never felt anything so smooth and fast, has to be fully completed within 1/4 of second its that quick. allows 4 shifts in 1 second. What i did notice is the soft restore feature on the flatshifter really keeps the car balanced when changing. Although the kick back on downshifts can be quite large and i guess if you get that wrong it will throw the car. I think alot of this is just getting my driving balance and getting to be at one with car will resolve this.
The motor GP race silencer sounds immense. but not too offensive actually.
"The soft-restore feature is a totally unique user-friendly method of providing the optimum up-shift kill-time without having the complexity or necessity or added expense of having individual kill-times for each gear, Soft-restore gives smooth up-shifts at all revs and speeds with close or wide ratio gearboxes. This is achieved with our unique shift control software that unloads the gearbox by cutting ignition or fuel supply voltage abruptly and then smoothly and progressively restoring the power simulating progressive throttle opening"
overall very very impressed with the car.. its all built very well but just a few things i want sorted for my own piece of mind. This will take me a year to get the hang of, it sounds immense and is very quick and very light at 480kg. theres alot of tech to get to grips with but thats part of the fun. will be out next weekend in the dry to give one more go at bedding the brakes in.
First thing i noticed was that my belts dont fit properly. seem to ride up to my sternum no mattrer what i do and i think thats because they are not fed through side holes in the seat they just come straight over the top. Next novice mistake was the roll bar mounted mirrors. couldnt see abloody thing out the rear view as it was too far over to the left and the roll bar is actually very close to your head when seated. Now for the technical part.
The AIM wheel i have can show you about 39 different types of info from around the car and all this is taken from the MBE ecu and into the Evo5 Datalogger then can be configured onto the 9 pages you change through on the wheel. There was only 5 things set up and that was oil pressure, oli temp, water temp, rpm and speed. So i had no idea how much fuel was in the tank. When i tried to fill up i couldnt get any fuel in and it just pissed out of the filler neck. it is situated on the side of the car in between the rear arch and back tub. i assumed maybe they had brimmed the tank for me before i collected it. Anyway when i called MNR they said, really sorry we forgot to tell you we brimmed the tank and when you fill you have to fill with the nozzle 180 degress rotated compared to normal. .
I downloaded race studio 3 program and from there you can adjust all the page parameters on the wheel. unfortunately i again forgot to configure the fuel gauge. Their is a maths channel where you can add values for different readings too, which is very technical but one example is it can be used to calculate what gear you are in based on RPM, Gear ratios and Speed. so i added those in and VWALA after a quick test the gear indicator on the wheel was spot on. One section of race studio 3 i am currently working on is the alarm section. Basically you can set engine and other car alarms to come onto the screen when a certain value is met. IE coolant temp reaches 110, the screen will flash red and show only coolant temp, this can also be set to 39 different parameters. i definitely need to work on that over the coming weeks. Soemthing else which is a great feature is the built in GPS tracker which can tell you which track you are on and log your lap /split times. pretty much every known track in the world is built in. and all this info can be added to the wheel so you can see live timings and last laps, fastest lap etc. very cool.
Next was bed the engine and brakes in and scrub the tyres, so i went through a predefined process for a radical sr3 sports car as we are using the same engine. Brakes wise i just wanted to warm them up and go through a couple of heat cycles, scrubbing the discs before cooling down nice and steady...i did this all on a 30 mile stretch of the m50 turned around and did another 30 mile back. I have to say the brakes are terrible and despite multiple attempts to get heat in them the pads just wont grab the discs. I think there is some air in the system as they are terribly spongy. i have heard the standard wilwood pads they supply are near on crap. Having looked at the reservoir set up im not happy either. looks like too many areas that could fail with multiple joints so i am going to replace the standard plain cylinders to AP cylinders with mounted reservoirs and replace the discs to mintex 1440's. so the plan is bleed the system and replace those standard items.
Finding neutral is also difficult as the car indicator works off speed and rpm values. so if your stopped and in 3rd gear with foot on the clutch it thinks your in neutral and says neutral even if your changing up and down the box. The way im going to solve this is to by a geartronice gear indicator that plugs directly into the gearbox, just needs a live and earth. this will then be calibrated by hand when in the right gear and it will know exactly what gear when in any position or scenario.
AS FOR THE RIDE... WOW! the car is an absolute rocket. I didnt go past half throttle and its quicker than the tiger by a mile. Its actually a very different driving experience and will take along time to get the hang of for sure. the flatshifter up and down sounds amazing when at 9000 -10000 rpm and changing up. ive never felt anything so smooth and fast, has to be fully completed within 1/4 of second its that quick. allows 4 shifts in 1 second. What i did notice is the soft restore feature on the flatshifter really keeps the car balanced when changing. Although the kick back on downshifts can be quite large and i guess if you get that wrong it will throw the car. I think alot of this is just getting my driving balance and getting to be at one with car will resolve this.
The motor GP race silencer sounds immense. but not too offensive actually.
"The soft-restore feature is a totally unique user-friendly method of providing the optimum up-shift kill-time without having the complexity or necessity or added expense of having individual kill-times for each gear, Soft-restore gives smooth up-shifts at all revs and speeds with close or wide ratio gearboxes. This is achieved with our unique shift control software that unloads the gearbox by cutting ignition or fuel supply voltage abruptly and then smoothly and progressively restoring the power simulating progressive throttle opening"
overall very very impressed with the car.. its all built very well but just a few things i want sorted for my own piece of mind. This will take me a year to get the hang of, it sounds immense and is very quick and very light at 480kg. theres alot of tech to get to grips with but thats part of the fun. will be out next weekend in the dry to give one more go at bedding the brakes in.
Say NO to Pheasants !!! Body count = 3
Say NO to Blackbirds !!! Body count = 1
Say NO to Marmots !!! Body count = 1
Say NO to Squirrels!!! Body count = 1
Say NO to Blackbirds !!! Body count = 1
Say NO to Marmots !!! Body count = 1
Say NO to Squirrels!!! Body count = 1
- ChrisL
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Re: MNR Vortex RT Hayabusa
Sounds like you need to 'toe heel' on the down shifts. The ECU/AIM wheel display sounds really cool, I love that you can set up alarms based on values, saves having to monitor the gauges individually.
Enjoy
Enjoy
Yes I've been drinking, what of it!!
- leegav
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Re: MNR Vortex RT Hayabusa
Chris the downshift system auto blips for you, so no need to heel toe. its just quite violent at times. works of an electrical actuator on the throttle clamp at the throttle body. and can be changed to have longer blips or shorter blips. i think it may need adjusting to be a bit longer. I am working on the Lambda value alarm and this may stop me cooking my engine if lamda goes out or starts to fail.
Say NO to Pheasants !!! Body count = 3
Say NO to Blackbirds !!! Body count = 1
Say NO to Marmots !!! Body count = 1
Say NO to Squirrels!!! Body count = 1
Say NO to Blackbirds !!! Body count = 1
Say NO to Marmots !!! Body count = 1
Say NO to Squirrels!!! Body count = 1
- DJ.
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Re: MNR Vortex RT Hayabusa
Wow, there seems to be a lot to get to used to. Once the flat shift/auto blip is sorted, that will make a big difference to your times I am sure.
I like the idea of the display going red if anything is wrong. I have an oil pressure light and low brake fluid, but I'm not sure I'd notice the coolant gauge creeping up until it was too late.
I like the idea of the display going red if anything is wrong. I have an oil pressure light and low brake fluid, but I'm not sure I'd notice the coolant gauge creeping up until it was too late.
- leegav
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Re: MNR Vortex RT Hayabusa
Just been setting some of the parameters tonight and to be fair it was very easy. Only issue is some of the frequencies from ecu are 5 hz some 10 hz 50 hz etc and I have no idea what that means as I can change those..
I’ve set warning lamps to flash until engine is up to temp via coolant and oil. And alarm screens to flash and tell me if pressure too low or temp too high etc. Still working out some other stuff such as what lambda reading would cook the engine.
I’ve set warning lamps to flash until engine is up to temp via coolant and oil. And alarm screens to flash and tell me if pressure too low or temp too high etc. Still working out some other stuff such as what lambda reading would cook the engine.
Say NO to Pheasants !!! Body count = 3
Say NO to Blackbirds !!! Body count = 1
Say NO to Marmots !!! Body count = 1
Say NO to Squirrels!!! Body count = 1
Say NO to Blackbirds !!! Body count = 1
Say NO to Marmots !!! Body count = 1
Say NO to Squirrels!!! Body count = 1
- nelmo
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Re: MNR Vortex RT Hayabusa
Woah, looks cool, I love gadgets like that.
However, as someone who almost drove up a pavement tonight trying to check my fuel gauge, probably not a good idea for me
However, as someone who almost drove up a pavement tonight trying to check my fuel gauge, probably not a good idea for me
My build blog: http://zerolifebuild.blogspot.co.uk
- SteveRST
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Re: MNR Vortex RT Hayabusa
Interesting stuff! Love these kinda gadgets! That's the sort of thing I'd happily spend many hours (days!) tinkering with.
I guess the frequencies - 5 Hz, 10 Hz, 50 Hz, etc. are related to how often the wheel display updates? Or maybe how often the ECU sends data to the datalogger?
Anyway - 5 Hz means something happens 5 times per second, 10 Hz is 10 times per second, etc.
So anything related to speed (rpm, road speed) you'd want updated (or data-logged) very frequently so 50Hz, whereas things like oil/coolant temp would only need updating (or logging) at say 5Hz.
I guess you can set up some pretty complex rules for the warning lamps? I.e. set the low oil pressure warning lamp to activate relative to the engine speed. So at 6k rpm you could get a warning if oil pressure falls below say 50 psi, but at 3k rpm have the warning to be set at say 30 psi. And at idle prob below 5 psi
Lambda warnings... again, dependant on engine load, revs, throttle position. So pretty complicated to set warnings that will not just trigger at erroneous times. Anything over lambda 1.03 (when engine is actually loaded) is prob not good though. Best bet would be to do some datalogging and see where your at, and then set up rules based on that data.
When I see you next I'm gonna grab a copy of your MBE ecu data if thats OK. Be interested to compare the setup parameters and maps to mine. I've got the little box and leads needed to talk to the ECU now and have been doing lots of messing about with my car - it's all pretty different to the Megasquirt on the other car.
I guess the frequencies - 5 Hz, 10 Hz, 50 Hz, etc. are related to how often the wheel display updates? Or maybe how often the ECU sends data to the datalogger?
Anyway - 5 Hz means something happens 5 times per second, 10 Hz is 10 times per second, etc.
So anything related to speed (rpm, road speed) you'd want updated (or data-logged) very frequently so 50Hz, whereas things like oil/coolant temp would only need updating (or logging) at say 5Hz.
I guess you can set up some pretty complex rules for the warning lamps? I.e. set the low oil pressure warning lamp to activate relative to the engine speed. So at 6k rpm you could get a warning if oil pressure falls below say 50 psi, but at 3k rpm have the warning to be set at say 30 psi. And at idle prob below 5 psi
Lambda warnings... again, dependant on engine load, revs, throttle position. So pretty complicated to set warnings that will not just trigger at erroneous times. Anything over lambda 1.03 (when engine is actually loaded) is prob not good though. Best bet would be to do some datalogging and see where your at, and then set up rules based on that data.
When I see you next I'm gonna grab a copy of your MBE ecu data if thats OK. Be interested to compare the setup parameters and maps to mine. I've got the little box and leads needed to talk to the ECU now and have been doing lots of messing about with my car - it's all pretty different to the Megasquirt on the other car.
Westfield Zetec turbo & Westfield Megabusa turbo
- leegav
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Re: MNR Vortex RT Hayabusa
Hi Steve
That’s awesome, thanks for the info mate. More than happy to take my mbe data... but only when you come up to mine for some beers mate
Ref warning lamps you can do just that. Set parameters on parameters. I haven’t fully figured out how to do that yet but I’ve been advised on a 25psi low warning above 4K revs. I honestly think I’ll
Be messing with this for months and months until I’m happy it’s all working right. I’ve added some flashing warning lights which stop when engine is all at correct temps and pressures so I know exactly when it’s properly warmed up
That’s awesome, thanks for the info mate. More than happy to take my mbe data... but only when you come up to mine for some beers mate
Ref warning lamps you can do just that. Set parameters on parameters. I haven’t fully figured out how to do that yet but I’ve been advised on a 25psi low warning above 4K revs. I honestly think I’ll
Be messing with this for months and months until I’m happy it’s all working right. I’ve added some flashing warning lights which stop when engine is all at correct temps and pressures so I know exactly when it’s properly warmed up
Say NO to Pheasants !!! Body count = 3
Say NO to Blackbirds !!! Body count = 1
Say NO to Marmots !!! Body count = 1
Say NO to Squirrels!!! Body count = 1
Say NO to Blackbirds !!! Body count = 1
Say NO to Marmots !!! Body count = 1
Say NO to Squirrels!!! Body count = 1
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