Autumn / Winter Upgrades (& A Downgrade)

[Fury1630]

Loving the "next 98.5mm....."
Yeah I'm sure it's that confined

Those springs are twice the length of mine, but I guess if you had a 7" spring backed up by a much weaker 2"spring it could be arranged such that the 7" spring only compresses when the 2" spring is coilbound, but I only have about 5" of shock stroke, so that would only give me about 4" of travel at full spring rate - oh I'm confused now. It looks to me like a rising rate is a good thing - if the suspension is designed around it & not the sort of thing that can be usefully retrofitted - at least to a Fury. I'll look into it though.

[Crunchie Gears]

Tony I fitted rising rate springs to my trad Morgan and they worked really well on the road car. They gave a compliant ride, rather than the cart like normal suspension, on the road but stiffened up under cornering load so they did not allow the car to roll too much.

The original hard springs are better on a smooth race track as the turn in is much sharper. The rising rate springs allow the car to roll a little before the cars yaw bits in to change the direction of the car.

I drove Mango’s Fury a while back and IMO it could do with some roll resistance. Rising rate, set at the right level, would keep the comfort you desire in a road car but limit the roll which would improve the handling and grip at speed. Particularly as you have no arb to stiffen the suspension on roll over bump.

For what it is worth I think the Fury has a good stiff chassis and so you need to design the suspension as a whole (front and back) or you could end up with a pig and curing the bump stop issue without taking in other considerations may work or just might give you different issues.

Just my thoughts Tony

[jeffw]

I would stick the front 180lb springs on the back and put new 210lb springs on the front. You need to maintain the balance front to back as much as possible, stock is 130/180 from memory and 180/210 works well on most CEC Furys.

[Fury1630]

Just my thoughts Tony

.... & they are good thoughts Crunchie thanks. I've not done anything with the suspension (since I raced RC cars) so I'm starting simple with a known set up. The springs I have are short (7") so in theory there's space for helper springs on the same shock. I may well have a play & see how I go.

[Fury1630]

Red is the new pink.
On Friday I masked around the vinyl scallops on the car - made of "guaranteed 7 year fade proof vinyl" which faded in 18 months mostly spent in a garage - then peeled them off, roughed up the surface thus revealed & oversprayed in proper red paint.

IMG_0596 Sm.JPG (107.23 KiB) Viewed 1763 times

Today I've rubbed through the red in places, you may call it "patina", you may call it "shabby chic", you may call it "rat rod" (you may call it "crap") but I like it. There's some stickerage coming in the post to set it off too.

Also on the car now are the ProTech front shocks - on the back. I needed new ones as the Spaxs on the back had been bottoming & mashed the bump stops & the adjuster rings were welded together with corrosion. FSC said I needed 12" front, 12 1/2" rear. I was suspicious as the spaxs are all 12" & the rears bottom, so I put the 12" on the rear - & they bottom over speed humps. Fortunately ProTech have agreed to swap the unused 12 1/2" ones for 11 1/2" & those currently on the back will move to the front (sigh). Then I have to get it set up & corner weighted before RR18 in LESS THAT FOUR WEEKS

[russtik]

There something that’s not clear to me; how does 1/2” of damper length have such a marked difference on them bottoming out? I’d have thought the damper length would have an impact on the amount of suspension travel but it would be the spring rates relative to that which would determine whether bump stops are reached? This is all very assumptive on my part, genuinely interested in the thinking.

[Fury1630]

I could make the 12 1/2" shocks work just fine - as long as I didn't mind the car having 3" of arch gap round the rear wheels & looking like a jacked up Cortina. Maybe I mounted the rear tub too high (though I had to cut chunks out to clear the side impact bars to get it as low as it is). If I set the body to be visually the right height (& the chassis 6" from the ground) then a 12" shock has about 15mm if travel before the bump stops hit. With springs stiff enough to control that, I may as well just have it riding on the bump stops .

So the 11 1/2" shocks should give me the ride height I want, with the shock travel I need, with the spring rate that preserves my spine - I think.

[jeffw]

A lot of racers actual use the spring to maintain the, legally required, ride height in the paddock but run on variable bumpstops on the track.

[Fury1630]

It could be argued that that's how the original Mini runs all the time.

[jeffw]

indeed. So hitting the bump stop isn't the end of the world if the bumptop is part of the suspension strategy.

https://eibach.com/us/c-121-products-mo ... stops.html

as an idea of what you can do.